TENT TRAILERS

Setup

Step 1: Before disconnecting from your tow vehicle, place a wedge chock behind each rear tire. If you don’t have a BAL tire leveler, then get your trailer as level as possible from side to side by driving your low side tire up on a block and then place your wedge chocks behind each rear tire.

Step 2: Disconnect from your tow vehicle.

Step 3: Level trailer from front to rear using your tongue jack.

Step 4: Level your trailer using BAL’s tire leveler (model #: 28050) on your low side tire.

Step 5: Extend all four of your jacks to the ground, using the handle provided with your jacks. For a firmer footing, BAL’s base pads (model #: 23035) are recommended. If one side of your trailer is lower than the other, start by cranking the jacks down on that side. Apply enough pressure to each jack to raise the trailer frame into a stable position. Check levelness by using a BAL bubble level (model #: 25025) placed inside your trailer on the kitchen table or counter top. Whichever side of the bubble level you need to raise to get the bubble in the center of the level is the side of the trailer you need to raise. You will want to have equal pressure on each leg. To accomplish this, you must “feel” the crank pressure required to turn the jack screws on each of your trailer’s jacks. When each screw requires the same pressure to turn, then you have equal pressure on each jack. If you have good side to side stability, stop cranking. If not, crank a little more. NOTE: Do not raise any tire off the ground by using your jacks. If you apply too much pressure to the jacks, your doors and windows may not close properly, or you may bend the jack leg(s).

Step 6: To get good front to rear stability, place BAL’s single tire locking chock (model #: 28020) on your tire opposite BAL’s tire leveler. Tighten wedges by hand around your tire, and then use a wrench to tighten more and apply enough pressure to squeeze wedges around your tire, controlling front to rear trailer rocking.

Take Down

Step 1: Place a wedge chock behind each rear tire.

Step 2: Remove single tire locking chock.

Step 3: Raise jack legs and secure.

Step 4: Lower tire leveler and remove.

Step 5: Connect to tow vehicle.

Step 6: Test tow vehicle coupler connection by putting gear shift in “reverse” and removing foot from brake. If vehicle disconnects from coupler, re-hitch. If hitch and coupler connection is secure, then put vehicle in “park”.

Step 7: Remove wedge chocks.

Step 8: Pull forward or backward and remove leveling block(s) under trailer’s low side tire if you used any.

 

TRAVEL TRAILERS

Setup

Step 1: Get your trailer as level as possible from side to side by driving your low side tire(s) up on blocks. Before disconnecting from your tow vehicle, place a “wedge” chock behind each rear tire.

Step 2: Disconnect from your tow vehicle.

Step 3: Using your tongue jack, level your trailer from front to rear.

Step 4: Extend all four of your RV jacks to the ground using the handle provided with your jacks. It is a good idea to use a hard piece of wood or other block under the jacks’ foot pads to prevent them from sinking into soft surfaces. If one side of your trailer is lower than the other, start on that side cranking down your jacks. Apply enough pressure to each jack to raise the trailer frame into a stable position. Check levelness by using a BAL bubble level (model #: 25025) placed inside your trailer on your kitchen table or a counter top. Whichever side of the bubble level you need to raise to get the bubble in the center of the level, is the side of the trailer you need to raise. You want to have equal pressure on each jack leg. To accomplish this, you must “feel” the crank pressure required to turn the jack screws on each of your trailer’s jacks. When each screw requires the same pressure to turn it, then you have equal pressure on each jack. If you have good side to side stability in your trailer, stop cranking, if not crank a little more. NOTE: Do not raise any tire off the ground by using your BAL jacks. If you apply too much pressure to the jacks, your doors and windows may not close properly or you may bend the jack leg(s).

Step 5: To get good front to rear stability, place one or two (for best results) of BAL’s dual or triple axle locking chocks between your tires and tighten against tires to help eliminate your trailer’s front to rear rocking. BAL has two locking chock models for you to choose from, model 28000 and model 28005. Since your trailer doesn’t have a parking brake, chocks are necessary to prevent this rocking movement. Your jacks will eliminate some or most rocking, but not enough to satisfy most people.

Step 6: Each day re-check jack screws for tightness as jacks may settle into soft surfaces and become less stable. Tighten jack screws as needed.

Take Down

Step 1: Place a wedge chock behind each rear tire.
Step 2: Remove tire locking chock(s).
Step 3: Raise jack legs and secure for travel. (cinch up tightly)
Step 4: Connect to tow vehicle.
Step 5: Test tow vehicle coupler connection by starting tow vehicle’s engine, putting gear shift in reverse and removing foot from brake. If vehicle disconnects from coupler, re-hitch. If hitch and coupler connection is secure, then put vehicle in “park”.
Step 6: Remove wedge chocks from behind rear tires.
Step 7: Pull forward or backwards and remove leveling block(s) under trailer’s low side tire(s) if you used any.

 

FIFTH WHEEL TRAILERS

Setup

Step 1: Get your trailer as level as possible from side to side by driving your low side tires up on blocks. Before disconnecting from your tow vehicle, place a “wedge” chock behind each rear tire.

Step 2: Lower landing gear just enough to raise your trailer king pin off of the hitch.

Step 3: Disconnect from tow vehicle.

Step 4: Using landing gear, level trailer from front to rear.

Step 5: Lower rear stabilizing jacks using the crank handle provided. It is a good idea to use a hard piece of wood or other block under the jack’s foot pad to prevent it from sinking into soft surfaces. If one side is lower than the other, crank that side’s jack down, and apply enough pressure to raise your trailer to a level position. Then lower the opposite side jack until it supports weight equal to the other jack. Check levelness by using a BAL bubble level (model #: 25025) placed inside your trailer on the kitchen table or counter top. Whichever side of the bubble level you need to raise to get the bubble in the center of the level is the side of the trailer you need to raise. Level, and then crank the opposite side jack down until it has equal pressure on it. To do this, you must “feel” the crank pressure required to turn the jack screws on each of your trailer’s jacks. When both screws require the same pressure to turn, then you have equal pressure on each jack. If you have good side to side stability, stop cranking. If not, crank a little more.

Step 6: Position your BAL king pin jack under your king pin so that the pad feet touch the ground and the legs go out toward the sides of your trailer. Ideally, your pads should be about 2 ½ to 4 feet apart. The legs do not need to make an equal triangle for the king pin jack to be effective. If one leg is short of reaching the ground, you may block up under the leg’s pad with blocks of anything you have available, or you may purchase an extension leg (model #: 25001) for your non-telescoping king pin jack leg and convert it into a telescoping leg. The jack will also work if you have the legs less than 2 ½ feet apart. Pull the loose end of the chain tight and put a link of chain over the hook on the opposite leg’s side. Turn the handle in the “stabilize” direction until the chain is moderately taught, but not so taught as to lift the trailer’s landing gear off the ground. To test your stability, push from side to side on either front corner of your trailer, and when you feel no movement, you’re done. The king pin jack will put a little extra pressure on the rear jacks. Be careful not to overload them.

Step 7: Place one (or two for best results) BAL locking chock(s) between your tires and tighten against tires to help eliminate your trailer’s front to rear rocking. Since your trailer doesn’t have a parking brake, chocks are necessary to prevent this rocking movement. Your jacks will eliminate some or most rocking, but not quite enough to suit most people.

Step 8: (Optional) Secure BAL king pin lock (model #: 25020) through holes in king pin flanges on king pin jack to help prevent theft of your king pin jack or trailer.

Step 9: Each day, re-check jack screws for tightness, as jacks may settle into soft surfaces and become less stable. Tighten jack screws as needed.

Take Down

Step 1: Place a wedge chock behind the rear tire(s).

Step 2: Remove tire locking chock(s).

Step 3: Raise and secure rear stabilizing jacks.

Step 4: Loosen and remove king pin lock and jack.

Step 5: Raise or lower king pin to desired height for hookup using landing gear.

Step 6: Hook up to king pin hitch.

Step 7: Test hitch/king pin connection by putting tow vehicle into gear and removing foot from brake. If vehicle moves forward and disconnects, re-hitch. If hitch and king pin connection is secure, put vehicle in park, and then retract and secure landing gear for travel.

Step 8: Remove “wedge” chocks.

Step 9: Pull forward or backward and remove blocks under trailer’s low side tire(s).

 

CLASS C MOTORHOMES – QTG 4-POINT JACKING SYSTEM

Setup

Step 1: Park your motorhome on as level a spot as possible. Try to be as level as you can from the front to the rear of your motorhome.

Step 2: Get your motorhome as level as you can from side to side by driving your low side tires up on a block.

Step 3: Apply your motorhome’s emergency brake.

Step 4: Check levelness by using a BAL bubble level (model #: 25025) placed inside your motorhome on the kitchen table or a counter top. Whichever side of the bubble level you need to raise to get the bubble to the center of the level is the side of your motorhome that now needs to be raised.

Step 5: Remove travel pins from all jacks. Then engage the crank handle provided with the hex portion of the drive screws to release the travel locks on your jacks. This is done by cranking the hex portion of jack screws clockwise about twelve complete turns until each drop leg is released. If necessary, adjust leg lengths which house the drive screws, by using the pull pin on each leg. Leg length adjustment is necessary 1) if the drop leg is too long to enable it to engage with the bolt in the end of the support leg which holds on the jack’s foot pad, or 2) if the foot pad does not touch the ground after being cranked down fully. Optionally, you may block under the foot pad and not adjust the jack’s drop leg length. To check for proper locking engagement of the support and drop legs, engage the crank handle on the hex screw end, pull the crank handle down and away from your motorhome’s sidewall. If the drop leg slides upward inside the support leg, you do not have proper locking. IMPORTANT: If required ground clearance still cannot be obtained for any leg(s), turn crank handle counter clockwise approximately twelve complete revolutions so that the screw completely retracts into the drop leg for maximum swing down clearance. This enables the drop leg to engage with the bolt in the support leg. If at any time a drop leg cannot be fully engaged with the support leg bolt, change the location of your motorhome or use ramps to raise the low side. Lower the jack legs to the ground on the low side or low end of your motorhome first. Crank the lowest corner first and the next lowest corner second. Crank down your opposite side or opposite end jacks next. Apply enough pressure to your jacks to get level and stable using only the crank handle provided. Never lift any tire off the ground with you BAL jacks. They are designed for leveling and stabilizing without lifting your tires off the ground. NOTE: The more your jacks are opened, the greater capacity of weight you will be able to lift. With everything else being equal, the 4-point QTG jacks will lift more weight than the 3-point SJ1/SJ2 jacks when the SJ1/SJ2 jacks are opened less than 20 inches. Above this height the SJ1/SJ2 jacks will lift 5000 pounds. If simplicity of use is more important to you than lifting capacity, then the SJ1/SJ2 jacks will be more to your liking. If lifting capacity at any jacking position is your priority, then the 4-point QTG jacks should be your choice.

Step 6: Re-check your bubble level to see how level a position your motorhome has reached. If OK and your stability is adequate, then you are done. If all is not level, then raise your lowest corner by cranking the jack’s screw with your crank handle. Your BAL bubble level will help you determine when you are level. If you are not satisfied with your stability, then apply extra pressure to your jacks’ screws with your crank handle. However, once again, be careful not to apply too much pressure to either raise any wheel off the ground or bend any jack leg

Take Down

Step 1: Make sure your motorhome’s parking brake is still set.

Step 2: Release pressure on your jacks using the crank handle provided. Turn crank handle in a counter clockwise direction until each foot pad is slightly off the ground. If you can remember in which order you activated your jacks to stabilize, then release them in the reverse order that you activated them. Otherwise, first do the high side of your motorhome and then the low side. (See figure 6 in QTG leveling jack manual)

Step 3: For each jack, push crank handle downward until the drop legs and support legs swing up into the traveling position. Using one hand to push down on the crank handle, use the other hand to insert the travel pin through the two holes in the main channel and the two holes in the support leg. (See figure 7 in QTG leveling jack manual). Make sure the detent wire is placed over the exposed end of the travel pin.
Note: If the holes in the main channel and the support leg do not line up, make sure the jack pad is level and/or the travel locking tab is not interfering with the support leg bolt. If the travel locking tab is interfering, turn the crank handle in a clockwise direction until the tab clears the bolt. (See figures 8A and 8B in QTG leveling jack manual)

Step 4: For each jack, turn the crank handle in a counter clockwise direction until it stops and snugs up into the locking travel position. (See figure 8C in QTG leveling jack manual)

Step 5: Release your parking brake.

 

CLASS C MOTORHOMES – SJ1/SJ2 3-POINT JACKING SYSTEM

Setup

Step 1: Park your motorhome on as level a spot as possible. Try to be as level as you can from the front to the rear of your motorhome.

Step 2: Get your motorhome as level as you can from side to side by driving your low side tires up on a block.

Step 3: Apply your motorhome’s emergency brake.

Step 4: Check levelness by using a BAL bubble level (model #: 25025) placed inside your motorhome on the kitchen table or a counter top. Whichever side of the bubble level you need to raise to get the bubble to the center of the level is the side of your motorhome that now needs to be raised.

Step 5: With the crank handle provided, engage the hex portion of the drive screw of the jack on the lowest side of the motorhome or in the front of your motorhome if that is the lowest point. Turn the crank handle clockwise to lower the jack to the ground and begin lifting until a satisfactorily level position is reached. Then crank the next lowest corner’s jack to the ground as you did with the first and then the third jack. Apply enough pressure to your jacks to get level and stable using only the crank handle provided. Never lift any tire off the ground with you BAL jacks. They are designed for leveling and stabilizing without lifting your tires off the ground. NOTE: The more your jacks are opened, the greater capacity of weight you will be able to lift. With everything else being equal, the 4-point QTG jacks will lift more weight than the 3-point SJ1/SJ2 jacks when the SJ1/SJ2 jacks are opened less than 20 inches. Above this height the SJ1/SJ2 jacks will lift 5000 pounds. If simplicity of use is more important to you than lifting capacity, then the SJ1/SJ2 jacks will be more to your liking. If lifting capacity at any jacking position is your priority, then the 4-point QTG jacks should be your choice.

Step 6: Re-check your bubble level to see how level a position your motorhome has reached. If OK and your stability is adequate, then you are done. If all is not level, then raise your lowest corner by cranking the jack’s screw with your crank handle. Your BAL bubble level will help you determine when you are level. If you are not satisfied with your stability, then apply extra pressure to your jacks’ screws with your crank handle. However, once again, be careful not to apply too much pressure to either raise any wheel off the ground or bend any jack leg.

Take Down

Step 1: Make sure your motorhome’s parking brake is still set.

Step 2: Release pressure on your jacks by turning the crank handle provided in a counter clockwise direction and continue cranking each jack screw until each jack is fully retracted and snugged up into the travel position. If you can remember in which order you activated your jacks to stabilize, then release them in the reverse order that you activated them. Otherwise, first crank up the front jack and then the rear jacks.

Step 3: Release your parking brake.